Everything, in one list
Eighteen pieces, four sections. The front page carries a handful of them; this is the rest.
Bodrum builds by eye
- 01
Planking without a drawing
In the Bodrum yards the frames are set up by eye and the lines are lifted off the finished hull afterwards, for the registry — the drawing follows the boat.
- 02
Frames standing on the hard
What a gulet actually is as a type, and why a 24-metre hull winters under tarpaulins between the road and the water.
- 03
The yards that are left
Bodrum's working yards have contracted as the town turned to tourism; what remains, and what they build now.
- 04
The timber, and what holds it together
Iroko, larch and the copper fastenings underneath, and why a wooden hull is a maintenance schedule rather than a material.
Twelve islands and a drowned town
- 01
Göcek and the twelve islands
A cruising ground small enough to sail in a week and sheltered enough to do it badly, which is why almost every charter starts here.
- 02
Kekova, over the stonework
A Lycian town slid into the water in the second century; you anchor above its staircases and doorways and can see them.
- 03
Fethiye down to Kaş
The coast changes character south of Fethiye — deeper water, fewer bays, and a different kind of day's sailing.
- 04
The meltemi, and why you leave at six
The summer northerly builds through the afternoon, which is why passages here are planned for first light and finished before lunch.
- 05
The crossing to the Dodecanese
Bodrum to Kos and Rhodes is a short hop across a national border, and the paperwork is the interesting part.
What she costs to keep
- 01
A Göcek pontoon against a town quay
What a marina berth buys that a town quay does not, and the gap between the two prices across a season.
- 02
Lift-out, and the fortnight ashore
The travel lift, the pressure wash, the blocks and the two weeks of work that only happen when the boat is out of the water.
- 03
Antifouling, and how often
Why the interval is set by the water rather than the paint, and what growth actually does to a hull's speed.
- 04
Charter arithmetic, until it doesn't
Chartering beats ownership up to a certain number of weeks a year; the crossover is further out than most owners admit.
- 05
Winter, and what it costs to do nothing
A boat left alone still spends money: layup, cover, insurance, and the survey that decides the next year's premium.
A week aboard
- 01
A week aboard, provisioned on a Tuesday
What actually comes aboard before a week's cruise, and where it comes from.
- 02
How a Blue Cruise is crewed
A gulet week runs on a captain, a cook and a deckhand, and the division of labour is older than the tourism it now serves.
- 03
Where the week actually goes
The route most weeks follow, why it follows it, and how little of it is under sail.
- 04
What comes aboard, and what stays ashore
The gap between what people pack for a week on a boat and what a boat has room for.