Bodrum, Turkey. Nee Halikarnassus and 5th century BC birthplace of Herodotus, this town is striking from the sea and interesting once ashore. In the Greek style, the c370 BC theater above the harbor is the oldest in Turkey. The Hospitaller (*see disclaimer at foot of the page) Castle of St. Peters which dominates the harbor is exquisitely preserved and encloses fascinating museums. The modern bazaar has considerable variety and there is a broad selection of restaurants, some good. Site of Seven Wonders tomb (c353 BC) of Mausolus of Caria, port in which his wife Artemisia the Younger trapped the Rhodian fleet in 352 BC, and location of the only real resistance to Alexander's march through the Near East. Port of Entry with its own international airport thirty minutes from the harbor.

Gumusluk, Turkey. Fifteen sailing miles from Bodrum, on the wind, Gumusluk is within walking distance of "new" Myndos, a Carian town founded by Mausolus in the 4th century BC. The harbor here sheltered an Egyptian fleet throughout the following century and, in 44 BC, proved a brief haven for the ships of Gaius Cassius Longinus, one of Julius Caesar's assassins. "Old" Myndos, a Lelegian town, is two miles to the SE. Gumusluk itself is whitewash and bougainvillea and rustic dining. Cagey rug merchants and wind surfers abound.

Kurin, Turkey. Twenty-four sailing miles NE of Gumusluk, on and off the wind, and the port of ancient Iassos. Memorialized in Iassos coinage is the association of boy and dolphin, and the dolphins still abound, playing in the white water of the Gulf of Gulluk. As for the boy, he was summoned to Babylon by Alexander and made head priest of the cult of Poseidon. Extensive ruins under continuous excavation off the beaten path. Fine seafood (the seafood from the sea, not the farmed seafood) on the waterfront.

Skrophes Bay, Turkey. Eighteen sailing miles from Kurin, on the wind, this is a beach and boardwalk town with a carnival atmosphere, including costumed vendors serving up ice cream in elaborate ceremonies. Three miles by taxi from ancient Didyma and its unfinished but substantial Temple of Apollo, fifteen miles from ancient Miletus and its 15,000 seat Greco-Roman theater. And at Miletus a Byzantine castle on the hill above. Good cuisine, great ice cream, and enterprising rug merchants.

Pharmakousa, Greece. Ten sailing miles from Skrophes Bay, off the wind, this is the island on which Julius Caesar was detained and ransomed by pirates while a student en route to Rhodes (where he studied at the School of Rhetoric then located in what is now a park for strutting peacocks). Perhaps because of Caesar's subsequent crucifixion of each and every resident, the inhabitants of Pharmakousa today are limited to goats and Greek Army conscripts. But there are Roman ruins antedating Caesar's return, some at the edge of clear swimming water.

Trogyllium, Turkey. Twenty-two sailing miles north of Pharmakousa, on the wind, and once a refuge for Saint Paul's oarsmen en route from Samos to Miletus, this anchorage is also five fair-weather miles west of the finest seafood restaurant on the Gulf of Latmos. Further along the gulf is Miletus (see Skrophes Bay above), birthplace of Greek philosophy and, in the sixth century BC, the richest city of the Greek world.

Kusadasi, Turkey. Twenty sea miles from Trogyllium, on and off the wind, Kusadasi is 12 road miles south of Ephesus, the latter perhaps the most interesting Greco-Roman city extant. Its Roman theater still hosts performing arts two millennia after construction, while its marble streets, library facade, temples, stadium, agora, and residential quarters require a knowledgeable guide. But do not miss in Greek Ephesus a few miles distant scanty remains of the Seven Wonders Temple of Artemis dating from the sixth century BC. Neither should the Belevi Mausoleum be missed. Eleven kilometers east of Ephesus, the Belevi Mausoleum is in fine repair (its lion-griffins and sarcophagus, however, removed to the Museum of Antiquities in Izmir) and is second in size only to that of Mausolus. It may be the 3rd century BC resting place of Antiochus II of Syria. Kusadasi itself has an extensive bazaar, fine seafood restaurants (try Ibrahim Usta's salt-baked fish, near the Kismet Hotel), and unprincipled rug merchants. Port of Entry.

Pythagorion, Samos, Greece. Twenty-two sailing miles west of Kusadasi, off the wind. Motor-bike up into pine-covered hills where there are tavernas without tourists. Buy at artist-factories producing ceramics rarely equaled. See the Temple of Hera. Explore the Eupalinus Tunnel (in the dark a straight line is the shortest distance between two points). Pythagoras, by the way, was born here but did his theorizing in Crotone, Italy, then a part of Magna Graecia. Greek cuisine on the beach at Trata Taverna 50 yards beyond the last caique. Port of Entry.

Agathonisi, Greece. A 16-mile island hop from Pythagorion, off the wind, and rendezvous venue for the 494 BC Battle of Lade between a Persian (Phoenician) fleet, on the one hand, and rebel Ionians from Asia Minor on the other. Dine at George's Taverna and the Seagull Taverna, both excellent and both on the waterfront. Hike hundreds of feet up to the Greek blue and whitewash of Megalo Horio. Visit Byzantine-era ruins and speculate. Idyllic. One of our favorite islands. Oh! The rebel Ionians? They lost the Battle of Lade, and a few weeks later they lost the brief independence of their city states, as well.

Arki, Greece. Thirteen sailing miles WSW of Agathonisi, off and on the wind, Arki is notable for three colorful caiques, three tavernas (try the house wine at Niko's), and three local families. An island of isolated coves on which to lay back and get away from everything but tzatziki and octopus in vinegar.

Patmos, Greece. A delightful ten-mile sail on the wind from Arki, Patmos is the sacred (320 churches for 2700 residents) island to which St. John the Divine was banished from Ephesus by Emperor Domitian in AD 95 and on which he dictated the Apocalypse. It is also an island with striking views, cloistered byways, and sand beaches willingly shared by resident ducks and geese. As for dining, well, Taverna Agora in Chora just below the monastery offers superb octopus in vinegar, nine on a scale of one to ten.

Lipsi, Greece. A ten mile island hop off the wind from Patmos, Lipsi is presumed by some to be the island on which Odysseus was shipwrecked returning from Troy and where he was seduced by the siren Calypso. One or the other, the island or Calypso, charmed him for seven years. Today Lipsi's beaches are the principal attraction, though the local wine and fresh sea food are also sirens. As for dining, try Taverna Calypso and ask for papa's marinated mackerel.

Leros, Greece. Eight sailing miles from Lipsi, off the wind, this is the island which headquartered the Italian Navy after it wrested the Dodecanese from Turkey in 1912, beginning thirty-one years of occupation. It is also an island where real property passes from mother to daughter and where local Greek men are suppliants only. A nice change of venue with a Knights castle, charming byways, and fine dining at Taverna Psarapoula in Pandeli.

Pserimos, Greece.  An eighteen-mile sailing run from Leros, Pserimos is notable for home-grown olives, capers, a 2nd century AD Temple of Aphrodite commissioned by Hermias, son of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, and a sandy beach which in season is wall to wall oiled Aphrodites. Best visited in April and October.

Kos, Greece. A nine-mile sailing reach from Pserimos, Kos is one of the green Dodecanese islands, its beaches and inland treks popular with Cleopatra. A waypoint for Saint Paul returning from his third mission, Kos was centuries earlier the birthplace of Hippocrates. The Asclepion (school of medicine) founded in Hippocrates' memory is a must-see, while the Hospitaller fortress and western excavations are also enlightening. Port of Entry in the spring bounded by hibiscus and rose laurel. Fine dining on the beach at Taverna Spitaki 200 meters east of Kos Island Marina; try the pork filets with stewed prunes and mozzarella.

Telendos, Greece. Sailing outside of Kalymnos, Telendos is nine sailing miles downwind of Leros. In addition to ultra-clear swimming water, Telendos boasts fifteen permanent residents, a great taverna, and underwater ruins from ancient Pothaion, including foundations of a Roman theater, building walls to a height of two meters, and city walls. Ashore the large basilica of St. Vasilios dates from the sixth century AD. As for the great taverna, that's Uncle George's; you can't miss it.

Pothia, Kalymnos. Eight miles downwind of Telendos, Pothia is an island metropolis with no-nonsense charm set under a handful of trees against an otherwise stark limestone backdrop. Best photographed from the Castle of the Knights, Pothia's principal character is evidenced by colorful fishing caiques moored as much as seven abreast. Some of the best of the caique product may be found at Theo's Vrahos Fish Taverna at the far end of the waterfront. Try the red snapper.

Nisiros, Greece. Twenty-five sailing miles off the wind from Pothia or twenty miles off and on the wind from Kos, Nisiros is a volcanic cousin to the more-visited Santorini, last erupting 25 thousand years ago. Its verdant exterior and quaint rim-villages mask a crater floor nevertheless still bubbling in places. Thick-soled shoes are recommended, as is a visit to the Doric acropolis circa fifth century BC. Amiable chatter and good cooking at Taverna Mikes in Mandraki.

Tilos, Greece. A motorbike island nineteen sailing miles from Nisiros, off the wind. And off the tourist track. A delightful hearkening back to what Greek islands were like before discovery by tourists. See the ancient and medieval acropolis above Megalo Khorio. It hosts one of seven castles on the island. See as well the fossilized bones of pleistocene dwarf elephants (when Tilos became an island six million years ago, resident mastodons devolved on lesser fare into dwarf elephants) unearthed at Harcadio. Taverna Armenon on the beach at Livadhia is superior.

Khalki, Greece. Seventeen sailing miles downwind of Tilos. A panoply of pastels further off the tourist track. Another castle willed by the Knights of Saint John, this one with a striking view from on high and with a remarkable fresco of St. Nicholas at sea. A sand beach. Superb dining at Taverna Aura. Try the eggplant dip; extraordinary!

Alimnia, Greece. Six miles downwind of Khalki, Alimnia is a formerly-populated but now deserted island which during the Italian and German era hosted Axis submarines. The Knights were here, too, of course, five hundred years earlier, and their castle sits atop an Hellenistic acropolis dated from the third century BC. Speculative exploring and idyllic swimming.

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This page last updated on 01/09/2008

Dear Homo Sapiens, There is no need to continue reading this page. What follows is intended for search engine robots and spiders and not necessarily for human beings. Further information concerning Aegean sailing holidays may be obtained by clicking on the blue links immediately above. Thank You. Are you searching for an Aegean charter yacht sailing holiday? For a charter yacht sailing holiday or honeymoon cruising Greece? For a charter yacht sailing holiday cruising the Greek Aegean? A yacht cruise among Greek islands? Are you planning to go Greek island hopping? To go in search of the perfect octopus salad? On your honeymoon? Would you like to charter a crewed sailing yacht in Greece to cruise among Greek islands of the Aegean Sea? Or are you thinking of a Blue Cruise? Preferring to charter a crewed sailing yacht to honeymoon along the west coast of Turkey? Pausing at Miletus, among other destinations? Miletus, it should be noted by honeymooners, was founded by Lycians or Carians (history is confused on this point) about 1500 BC. Invaded five hundred years later by Ionians from Attica (surrounding Athens), male only, the new arrivals murdered all local men and married their widows. That year almost everyone in Miletus was on honeymoon. Following the aforementioned (see Agathonisi) Battle of Lade another five hundred years later, lost because Ionian city states were unwilling to unite under one commander, Persians took Miletus, executed all males, and had their way with Milesian women. It was once more a time of honeymoons. A granddaughter of one of these unions was Aspasia, the celebrated "uncrowned queen of Athens," "consort" or "courtesan," depending on source, who kept house for and bore a son to Pericles. Would you like to charter a sailing yacht to cruise through history? Would you like to charter a sailing yacht to cruise further along the Aegean coast of Turkey? Are you searching for Bodrum in Turkey? The aforementioned (under Bodrum) Artemisia not only trapped the Rhodian fleet in Bodrum harbor, a fleet attempting to take advantage of the death of Mausolus, she then dispatched her own fleet to Rhodes and subjugated the island. From Bodrum it is an easy sail to Rhodes, or to Kos, Leros, Telendos, Khalki (Halki), Agathonisi (Gaidharos), Tilos, Pserimos, Nisiros, Kalymnos, Arki, Lipsi (Lipsos), and Patmos, all in Greece. And to Samos. Contact us now! We have some familiarity with these places. Polycrates, the sixth century tyrant who seized control of Samos, built in Pythagorion a fleet of one hundred penteconters. A penteconter or pentekontoros is a fifty-oared galley, a triaconteresa is a thirty-oared galley. Penteconters and triaconters were not employed for Aegean sailing holidays and honeymoons but rather for naval engagements, and Polycrates used them to dominate coastal Asia Minor. Two thousand years later much of the same area was dominated by the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem, or *Knights Hospitaller. By then headquartered in Rhodes, the Hospitallers in 1407 took what is now Bodrum, calling it Saint Peters, and built there the formidable redoubt of the same name. They also settled themselves on Kara Ada, the large island two miles distant, calling it Arco, and the even larger island nine miles to the SW, calling it Lango. We know the latter island as Kos, but Kos is a Greek name and the Hospitallers were Latin. While we possess a kind of historical and geographical familiarity with this part of the world, enough to know there is a difference between Orthodox Catholic and Roman Catholic but not enough to define the difference, we have no familiarity whatsoever with the U.S. foe in Iraq, and we wonder just how deficient in familiarity the U.S. administration is, too. This foe is variously described by unregistered Oval Office lobbyists, such as Richard Perle, as regime loyalists, terrorist infiltrators, and formerly imprisoned criminals released during the invasion. Or the strife is put down as civil strife having nothing at all to do with the U.S. presence. There is no mention of Iraqis angry with the invader. As if no Iraqi has lost a loved one to a U.S. bomb. As if no Iraqi has lost a limb. Or lost a job. Or lost his or her savings. And the dreams that went with each of these. No, there are no legitimately angry Iraqis. Just malcontents. Donald Rumsfeld two years after the invasion (20 March 2005) placed blame for Iraqi chaos on the Republic of Turkey, asserting that had Turkey permitted the U.S. to open a second invasion front, all of the malcontents would have been nabbed at the outset. Please Mr. Bush, let's hope your new Secretary of Defense has a better grasp of the situation. And having rid yourself of Rumsfeld, get rid of Perle, too. He has managed the wasting of Hollinger International shareholder assets in much the same way he has managed the wasting of U.S. stature. Now in his second or third misbegotten incarnation he is railing against Baker-Hamilton recommendations designed to bring an end to this unholy mess. And you, the reader, register your continuing concern with your legislator; it is past time the U.S. removed itself from Iraq, it is past time Iraqis determined their own future. Afghans, too. To discuss any and all the foregoing, please contact us today at tgeyacht@aol.com