Sailing Routes and Cruising AreasLycian Charter Sailing HolidaySailing Turkey(Links in Underlined Blue Text) Gulf of FethiyeAncient Lycia's Glaucus Sinus or Gulf of Telmessos, now the Gulf of Fethiye, is surrounded by lower slopes of the Taurus Mountains pine clad to the sea's edge, and its crystal-clear water invites swimmers and snorkelers. It is an area of flat-water sailing easy on those not accustomed to open sea, and is rimmed with innumerable coves, anchorages, and archaeological sites.
Gocek. The Club Marina in Gocek is the scenic ultimate in yacht marinas and the place the Charter Sailing Yacht T.G. Ellyson calls home. It is situated up against pined slopes of a national forest in the NW corner of the Gulf of Fethiye and may be the site of ancient Hyparna, a fortified town defended by mercenaries which fell to Alexander during the winter of 334/333 BC. By the first century before the Christian era Gocek was called Callimache, a port the Roman Stadiasmus places 50 stade (about 5 nautical miles) each from Rhodian Daedala (Inlice) and Lycian Crya (Tomb Bay). Today Gocek has an enviable charm as an emerging second-home destination and yacht haven twenty-five minutes from Dalaman International Airport. It is also the site of a rare temple tomb in the Doric order. From Gocek we often accompany guests by car to ancient Calynda, and from there up into nearby hills to inspect temple tombs in the Ionic order at a site not yet identified but which may be ancient Telandros. A bit further down the road may be found an Ottoman bridge to rival the UNESCO World Heritage bridge at Mostar. In Gocek there are several good restaurants, among them the Lemon Restaurant on the waterfront and Dursun's Palm Cafe set in an orange grove adjacent to the town's municipal office building. Tomb Bay (Taskaya). Six miles from Gocek, Tomb Bay is delightful for dining,
swimming, or boat Tersane Island. One mile from Tomb Bay. Perhaps once Telandria, a dues-paying member of Athens' Delian League. Ancient evidence, however, is limited to remains of what may be a watch tower now mostly watching the Simavi estate on Domuz Adasi, a substantial fortress-like structure the lower courses of which are isodomic, and the remains of a handsome tomb in the Cadyanda order. There are in addition numerous ruins reminiscent of 1923 when the last Greek residents were forcibly deported. Yesim Acar, the local restaurateur and full-time goat herd/shepherd, serves a superior fare based on her pastures. Cleopatra's Bay (Manastir). Three miles from Tersane. Another exquisite setting with thick pine to the water's edge. Monastery ruins half submerged testify to medieval presence of the Greek church. Also called Ruin Bay, a 55-minute hike takes the inquisitive to ancient Lydae. Off the beaten path and rarely visited, Lydae features mausolea, agora foundations, statue remnants, Corinthian column sections, and inscribed pedestals from the Roman and Byzantine periods. Cleopatra was here twice, once in 46 BC and again in 32 BC honeymooning with Marc Antony. He, Antony, was en route to Actium. She, Cleopatra, was transporting the Egyptian treasury to fund his misadventures. Recep, the off-again-on-again restaurateur at Cleopatra's Bay, bends any bendable ear while pouring cold beer or hot tea. Wall Bay (Manastir). Wall Bay is a quarter-mile from Cleopatra's Bay with as
much Force 4-5 sailing en route Sea Gull Bay (Yavan Koyu). One mile from Wall Bay, Sea Gull Bay is yet another locale in an idyllic setting, this one pastoral among fig trees. The bay may be recognized by its large signature symbol done in white stone. The restaurant here is that of a magnetic Greco-Turkish woman and her nine offspring; both fare and ambiance are rustic. A pleasant hike through pine trees followed by a short climb takes the venturesome in thirty-five minutes to ancient Arymaxa. Arymaxa features Roman mausolea, one inscribed in Greek, a Hellenistic tomb also inscribed in Greek, a unique sarcophagus partly in situ, and a Byzantine cistern. Gemiler (St. Nicholas) Island. The meaning of the Turkish word gemiler is the ships, and this island fifteen miles from Sea Gull Bay is remarkable in part because its north shore is lined with galliot and other vessel parking slips. Once home to Lycian and Byzantine pirates, the remains of an entire village are there to be explored, from the aforementioned pirate-ship parking to unique covered passage to basilica. A wonderful place to swim and snorkel, and an equally wonderful place to take in a hilltop sunset with a bottle of wine. This part of Anatolia, it might be noted, has harbored pirates since arrival of Lycians in the second millennium. Tablets found at Tel-el-Amarna in Egypt mention Lycian sea raiders as early as the fourteenth century BC. Cold Water Bay (next photo). Less than a mile from Gemiler Island, Cold Water Bay derives its name from a pair of fresh water springs rising beneath its sea and, perhaps, from its site under hills which block the sun during late afternoon. The ghost-town of Kaya emptied of its Christian population during World War I begins at the crest of those hills about twenty minutes distant. A century ago Kaya was known as Levisse, a prosperous Greek town, and Fethiye (see below), then Macry, was Levisse's thriving port. Careful examination of the ghost town reveals an occasional ancient block. These and tombs in the valley below mark the only remains of Lycian Cissidae. Ali Tuna, the accommodating restaurateur at Cold Water Bay, is a genial host who entertains with campfire and conversation, often accompanied by a braying Pavarotti. Olu Deniz. Two miles from Cold Water Bay, Olu Deniz is the most photographed and picture-postcarded of any beach in the eastern Mediterranean. Photos are best taken during a 30-minute paraglide down from Baba Dag (Father Mountain). The lagoon at Olu Deniz in 67 BC harbored the Roman galleys of Pompey the Great, there to eject Lycian pirates from Gemiler Island. Butterfly Valley. Two miles from Olu Deniz and inaccessible except by
sea, this striking spot is Sarsala Bay. Sixteen miles from Butterfly Valley, Sarsala is yet another striking pine-surrounded bay in which to swim and kayak. It is also a convenient starting point for a ninety minute hike to ancient Lissa, notable for inscribed walls dating from the 3rd century BC rule of two of Cleopatra's Ptolemy forebears and for the majestic positioning of its acropolis above a fresh-water lake. The restaurant at Sarsala is above average. Kappi Creek (Goben Iskelesi). Two miles from Sarsala Bay, Kappi Creek is an idyllic all-weather anchorage surrounded by pine and olive trees. It features ruins of uncertain vintage, swimming alternatives, and, serving a superior fare, the oldest of the bay restaurants. Fethiye. Twelve miles from Kappi Creek, Fethiye is ancient Telmessos and site of several of the finer rock tombs extant, some featuring Ionic porticoes, some featuring Lycian inscriptions. Once home to Alexander's seer, Aristander, there remains a part of a Roman theater as well as a Byzantine fortress atop an ancient acropolis. Fethiye has for at least three thousand years been the gateway to ancient Lycia, and from there excursions to Cadyanda, Tlos, Pinara, and other Lycian settlements are rewarding. In Fethiye there are covered markets and lots of other shopping, particularly on Tuesdays. There is also excellent dining at the fish market where fresh seafood may be selected at wholesale for preparation by surrounding restaurants, including Reis Denizcilik. Bougainvillea abounds. And a truly exhilarating sail in and out of port.
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